How to Read a Spark Plug on My Yamaha Grizzly 700


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#ane

Old 01-16-2020, 03:38 PM

Peppysan Peppysan is offline

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Question Yamaha Grizzly 700 will non get-go


I have a 2008 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EFI Quad and I cannot go it to starting time, this machine is used almost every day and the day previous it was running fine when I parked it back into the shop. The next day I tried to start it and it just will not run. It has power, cranks, has fuel, & spark, and no ECM Codes are nowadays. I have the manual for the machine and I think I have gone through each and every bank check and residue to diagnose the problem and cannot notice a problem. I have over 40 years of trouble shooting and fixing things and this one has me completely stumped.

I am at the point of taking it to a dealer, and I am request if anyone on hither tin recommend a Yamaha dealer that is very adept at problem shooting a problem like this. I have tried all the ATV Forums looking for a similar situation and have even posted on ane for some tips and help, but no joy there.
I would exist willing to have it to whatever dealer between Nanton and Airdrie, so hopefully someone tin can make a recommendation. Cheers

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#2

Old 01-sixteen-2020, 03:46 PM

artie artie is offline

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http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=369634

maybe this quondam thread will help

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#iii

Old 01-16-2020, 03:53 PM

huntwat huntwat is online now

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Mine needed a new battery. Would turnover fine. (Seemed to anyways). Boost it with a skilful bombardment�s. Y'all will know right away

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#iv

Old 01-16-2020, 04:00 PM

elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline

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I know of a 2007 Grizzly that was run low on fuel, and the fuel pump was damaged. so it only put out a very pocket-sized amount of fuel, not enough to run. I would guess non enough fuel or a weak spark

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Final edited by elkhunter11; 01-sixteen-2020 at 04:25 PM.

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#5

Old 01-xvi-2020, 04:04 PM

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JReed JReed is offline

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If the battery has power but the engine isn't turning over, maybe the battery doesn't have enough common cold creepo amps to turn it over in this weather. In that instance a new battery would set this

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#6

Old 01-16-2020, 04:xviii PM

ram crazy ram crazy is offline

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Attempt putting a new plug in it. Only considering you have spark doesn�t mean it�s a practiced spark.

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#7

Old 01-sixteen-2020, 04:23 PM

farmer60 farmer60 is offline

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Fuel or carb ice ?? Pitiful, no carb, but maybe still ice.


Concluding edited by farmer60; 01-16-2020 at 04:29 PM.

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#8

Old 01-sixteen-2020, 04:26 PM

farmer60 farmer60 is offline

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Water ice somewhere in fuel system??


Last edited past farmer60; 01-16-2020 at 04:30 PM. Reason: correction

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#nine

Old 01-16-2020, 04:43 PM

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crazyperch crazyperch is offline

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not sure on your quad, but on my honda 420 there is a kill switch on the handle bars.

i never use information technology, merely i gauge 1 fourth dimension when i was getting off the quad i bumped it.
didnt realize this when i went to get-go it the adjacent time. took me an hr to effigy out why information technology wouldnt start.

felt kinda dumb once i figured it out.

on my quad information technology also has a switch to turn the fuel to "reserve" did someone play a joke on your and switch it on yours? one time the reserve fuel is used upward, the quad wont run.

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#10

Old 01-16-2020, 04:49 PM

elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline

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Your shop is heated? My Grizzly did not like to beginning in very cold weather until I switched to synthetic oil.

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#11

Old 01-16-2020, 05:27 PM

Sledhead71 Sledhead71 is offline

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I would change the plug and featherbed the on/off switch with a paperclip and run into what information technology does...

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#12

Old 01-16-2020, 05:45 PM

C2C3PO C2C3PO is online now

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I accept the aforementioned year and model and maintain it impeccably.
This twelvemonth of a sudden it would crank but not beginning.
Went through all the things you mentioned.
I called a store and spoke to the senior mechanic who told me to change the spark plug.
I told him the plug was fine.
He told me to alter the plug anyway.
I told him I took information technology out, was clean as could be, good gap and when grounded it sparked but fine.
He told me to alter the plug anyway.
I ignored him and chased downwardly every other affair similar the fuel pump, switch, etc. Nothing worked.
And so I changed the damn plug and it started correct up.
Apparently ( and I did not know this) a plug can/will behave differently under compression and this is not uncommon fifty-fifty though information technology appears fine.
Requite it a try, worse case you lot have a spare plug for when you need it...

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#xiii

Old 01-sixteen-2020, 05:48 PM

dmcbride dmcbride is offline

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Spark plug or computer problem.

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#14

Old 01-16-2020, 05:59 PM

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If it has fuel, compression and spark, bold it is still timed correctly. It has to run. Spark plugs practise fail nether compression. That�s the easiest road, alter it and meet what happens- or you�ve missed or are assuming something is present simply not actually.
Good luck. It shouldn�t exist hard.
Tullfan

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#15

Old 01-xvi-2020, 06:30 PM

amosfella amosfella is offline

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Spark plug. Under compression, the arc jump is equivilant to vi-8 times the length at atmospheric force per unit area. At least you know your coil is likely good. A spark plug is like $10 at worst case?? Give it a shot. Become NGK or Bosch.

If replacing the battery, go a Yuasa bombardment. Every other battery I tried was junk in the Griz. Sask Battery had the Yuasa battery for $x more shipped than other places were selling inexpensive batteries for. Some of the inexpensive batteries were only lasting a few months.

If your battery is the problem, information technology's not worth frying the display over a cheap battery.

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#16

Old 01-sixteen-2020, 06:35 PM

204ruger 204ruger is offline

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Yup!!! Fifty-fifty though your spark may look good on spark plug and plug looks ok. When you spiral it back into head that spark changes Switch spark plugs, that is the very get-go affair I do with a no start if it�due south got air, fuel, compression, and spark. It�s probably the cheapest thing you lot can try besides what some guys experience is a �mechanic�in a can sea cream.

If that doesn�t piece of work. If you have fuel hows the force per unit area? And if pressures ok how�s the menses?

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#17

Old 01-16-2020, 06:37 PM

nick0danger nick0danger is offline

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If information technology's a 2 stroke, starting time thing I try is new plugs!!! Fixed the reverse on a sled I bought!

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#18

Old 01-16-2020, 08:16 PM

Kurt505 Kurt505 is offline

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Did you await into the stator? I had to replace the stator in ane of my grizz 700�s.

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#19

Old 01-16-2020, 08:25 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt505 View Post

Did you look into the stator? I had to replace the stator in ane of my grizz 700�southward.

X2

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#20

Old 01-16-2020, 09:19 PM

ram crazy ram crazy is offline

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Quote:

Originally Posted past C2C3PO View Post

I accept the same twelvemonth and model and maintain it impeccably.
This year suddenly it would creepo but not start.
Went through all the things y'all mentioned.
I called a shop and spoke to the senior mechanic who told me to change the spark plug.
I told him the plug was fine.
He told me to change the plug anyway.
I told him I took it out, was clean as could be, good gap and when grounded it sparked just fine.
He told me to modify the plug anyway.
I ignored him and chased down every other thing like the fuel pump, switch, etc. Nothing worked.
Then I changed the damn plug and it started right up.
Apparently ( and I did non know this) a plug can/will behave differently under pinch and this is not uncommon even though it appears fine.
Give information technology a try, worse case you have a spare plug for when you need information technology...

9 times out of x the plug fixes the problem!

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#21

Old 01-16-2020, 09:52 PM

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Lefty-Canuck Lefty-Canuck is offline

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Yup new plug, whenever mine won�t start that�s ordinarily what does it.

LC

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#22

Old 01-16-2020, 09:52 PM

j335 j335 is offline

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Does the fuel pump kick in to prime itself when you turn the key? If not pull the fuse cover and pull off the fuel pump relay & dry it out. Reinstall with dielectric grease and fire it upwardly.
Had this happen to me on an one-time grizz during a cold snap

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#23

Old 01-16-2020, 10:54 PM

Peppysan Peppysan is offline

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Well all good tips from you fellas. Thanks

The machine is in a heated shop, and this happened, (Dec. concluding year) before the cold snap. Just to give y'all some background the quad was running perfect when I put information technology back into my store, we use it around hither only moving snow, harrowing, pulling a small manure spreader, so no hard trail riding.
I came out the adjacent day and turned the fundamental and I heard two loud snaps like electrical sparks. This was earlier I pushed the start button, and so it wouldn't start, information technology cranked OK and did the backfire thing but no go. I initially went to checking all the fuses and relays under the hood, but all adept.

And yes the first affair I did was spark plug x2 new ones, tried them both. Kill switch is good, or it wouldn't crank.

Subsequently going though the shop transmission for diagnosing and checking all the ECM components I initially thought it was a sheared woodruff fundamental on the crank but having taken that autonomously it was in perfect shape. When I had the cover off it was apparent that the stator looked a little burnt, and the reading from the crankshaft position sensor was slightly lower than the mill specs telephone call for. Then since Christmas I ordered a new stator w/sensor and put that in.

It'south all back together with a new stator, new CPS, new plug, all tests bachelor from the ECM options piece of work, like spark plug firing, injector injecting, fuel pump relay cycling all OK. The battery was new in October, and I have it on a maintainer currently so it'south fully charged each fourth dimension I try to crank information technology.
When I creepo it over it may initially backfire though the exhaust and then if I continue cranking it and working the throttle it volition backfire out the throttle body with flame, so enough of gas and spark available to practise that.
That would mean one of two things, valves are opening at the wrong fourth dimension, or the ignition timing is wrong. I have addressed the valve lash and prepare it to spec as per manual, did it twice actually just to be certain I had the timing marks correctly aligned to TDC equally per the manuals procedure. The merely thing that I have read nigh is if the timing chain has stretched or slipped (ha). Having a good look at it it is tight on the sprockets there is no slop and no way it could have slipped, (it wasn't running at the time information technology died).

To farther eliminate potential components, I happen to take a second identical Grizzly 700, then I pulled the ECM from the dead car put it into the good machine and it started. I besides pulled the Spark Coil from the bad auto and it too started the good machine. Neither good component started the bad machine. Merely I had to try.
I drained the fuel and put in some new fuel with a splash of Seafoam for good measure, but all to no avail. I did not do a compression test, as I don't have the correct fitting for that sparkplug thread, merely I recall it would start even with depression pinch, but like I mentioned information technology was working up until I shut it off unremarkably for the day.

I still have that SNAP - SNAP in my heed from when I turned the cardinal that morning. I take tested the 3 diodes in the wiring harness, I have cleaned ground points and re-torqued the connections.

I mean everything works it just will non start. That's why maybe a dealer or a fresh pair of optics are needed to find what I may have missed. I come across that there are many terminating caps on the wiring harness that may be connection points for the dealer to hook upward some better diagnostic tool??

Help

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#24

Old 01-sixteen-2020, 11:36 PM

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Soooo, if it is back firing out the exhaust, or intake makes me think timing. Have y'all really confirmed that the rotor is on elevation dead center marking, the cam marks lined up as they should aaaannnd, the piston is actually at the top of its stroke.
Information technology does not make any sense that it won�t start. If information technology still wont offset dorsum to basics. Fuel, air, spark.
No starts to be honest shouldnt take any more than than an 60 minutes. Barring whatsoever difficult parts that are cleaved. Information technology really is simple.
If you tin�t become it going pm me your address and I�ll come out. I�m always up for a claiming, specially a fun one. Barring whatsoever cleaved parts, I should be able to get it running or point you in the cleaved component direction.
Tullfan

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#25

Old 01-17-2020, 12:twenty AM

Peppysan Peppysan is offline

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Default Capeesh the offer


Yes I did go through the process twice, pulled the plug and used a probe to determine TDC of the piston at the same position as the two timing marks.

The indicator line on the camshaft end has me a little puzzled, every bit it is slightly off from the casting marking (arrow). Come across image.

TimingMark1.jpg

Non sure how perfectly aligned information technology needs to be, but I can't find anyhow to brand a small mechanical adjustment to the timing, (like turning the distributor). It does seem to be a bit which could relate to a caste or two, and I think that could exist a trouble. Other than that it's all electronically timed past the ECM every bit far as I know.

I can't believe that there is anything "Broken" as similar I had mentioned it was running fine when I turned it off normally the day before.

I am going out for Elk tomorrow so depending on how that goes I won't become to practice annihilation with it until peradventure Saturday or later on.

Thanks for the offer and I volition get back to y'all if yous are yet willing to have a expect.

Thanks to All.

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#26

Old 01-17-2020, 05:46 AM

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Check your ignition switch and the impale switch. Spray a little contact cleaner in them. I was having a hard time starting my True cat 500 and this helped a lot. Easier starting now. Inexpensive like shooting fish in a barrel fix if that is the problem.

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#27

Old 01-17-2020, 06:38 AM

Mb-MBR Mb-MBR is online now

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Well this solution hasn't been posted withal, I'll post...��.Purchase a Polaris..... JK

I posted near having problems with my older Yamaha, same issues you lot've identified and I've pretty much run the course on trying to set it and gave up and parked it...�..and bought a Polaris. lol Havent had any problems since.

And similar you I've spent so much time on it, its got me curious and volition go back at trying to ready it sometime this summer.

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#28

Old 01-17-2020, 07:46 AM

elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Mb-MBR View Post

Well this solution hasn't been posted yet, I'll mail...��.Purchase a Polaris..... JK

I posted about having problems with my older Yamaha, same issues y'all've identified and I've pretty much run the grade on trying to set up it and gave upwardly and parked it...�..and bought a Polaris. lol Havent had any issues since.

And like you lot I've spent and so much time on it, its got me curious and will get back at trying to fix it sometime this summer.

Buying a new car usually works no affair what you buy , but long term I would rather take a Yamaha than a Polaris reliability wise.

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#29

Old 01-17-2020, 08:26 AM

ram crazy ram crazy is offline

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Quote:

Originally Posted past elkhunter11 View Post

Ownership a new car ordinarily works no matter what you purchase , but long term I would rather have a Yamaha than a Polaris reliability wise.

Buy a Honda and washed!

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#30

Old 01-17-2020, 08:37 AM

Redneck 7 Redneck 7 is offline

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My kodiak 700 did this almost a twelvemonth after I bought it. See how much pressure your fuel pump is putting out. Mine crapped the bed and they fixed information technology on warranty, I can�t recollect the numbers, needs like 50 psi to run and mine was only putting out ten. Cranking and cci ranking it finally fires but won�t stay running.

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